I understand that when discussing his latest collection, Yohji Yamamoto mentioned that he saw this show as a new beginning for himself as a designer. It feels appropriate to be posting this today, on the first anniversary of the earthquake and tsunami. Samuel and I have always aimed to focus on the positive, and today is no exception: particularly in the light of last March’s events we want to celebrate all that makes Japan (and Japanese fashion) so incredible. 2012 has been a fresh start for many, and we hope to continue to promote Japan as best we can – simply because we love this country.

Okay, slightly emotional (at least on my part!) introduction out of the way, tissues crumpled and cup of tea back in hand. Let’s talk about Yohji Yamamoto. Much like Comme des Garcons’ collection also during Paris Fashion Week, it’s taken me a few days to get my head around this show. Red? Military green? Indigo? But Yohji, what’s wrong with simple black and white?! Nothing, and there’s nothing wrong with a bit of colour now and again…

This collection felt young and fresh to me, initially I found it perhaps a little uncomfortably youthful – there was a kind of naive sexuality to the models: bare legs exposed, teenagers in black lipstick and coloured hair extensions, and red poles on the runway which the models later draped themselves around as if unsure whether to dance or simply be living mannequins. It took me a while to get past this, but once I did I was pleased to see that Mr. Yamamoto has lost none of his skills in the conjuring of magic from mere fabric. There were stunning drapes and shapes hidden in the darkness of many of the designs, and as always there’s more than meets the eye.

My particular favourites were the beautifully draped shawls that we also saw in the menswear collection, and the simple black dresses that restricted the movement of one arm and brought the shoulders right up to the neck. Uncomfortable, yes, and rather beautiful in its own way. One piece that really caught my attention was the mummy-like envelope of white with bold blanket stitch up the front: it stuck out like a sore thumb in comparison to the rest of the collection, and while I could choose to interpret it in a variety of ways, I’ve decided not to over-think it too much.

Overall, while I have to say that this was a rather difficult collection for me as a fan of Yohji Yamamoto, it still features many of the things that I love about this designer: the flow of cloth and singularity of vision. Perhaps this is a lesson to myself not to judge a book by its cover…

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2 Responses to Yohji Yamamoto – Red Hot A/W 2012 Collection

  1. Wim's says:

    Wow !This is a gorgeous collection for women ! Thanks for sharing it !

  2. Rebecca says:

    @ Wim’s – Thanks, glad you like it!

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