Yoshi Kubo is one designer whose showmanship was distinctly missed when he cancelled his 12th Japan Fashion Week show in lieu of putting on an exhibition and producing a fantastic look book. Still while the flames and thugs of the S/S collection promised a must-see show, nothing from the current collection has been lost in this means of delivery. In fact the theme of man in a barren unknown wilderness was quite well captured in the stark look book where the adventurer was pitched against the promise of the snowy American North-West. Expect to see the usual excellence in textiles that Yoshio Kubo is renowned for against stars, antlers and images of the wilderness in which man himself becomes part of the exquisite scenery as well as the layer laden nomad within it.
Continue reading for my highlights of this chilly collection that manages to capture the romance of adventure and beauty in the bleak. Ultimately, like the Phenomenon A/W Collection, this too addresses the issue of modern masculinity, but in this case by cherishing the ideolised spirit of adventure that is increasingly missing from the male experience.
I must say that I am very taken with Yoshi Kubo’s band of colourful explorers. The deconstructed functional elements are definitely the key point for me that elude to a form of out-dated masculinity or even colonialism. Like the majority of menswear designers this year the area where there has seen the most progression is in what to do with the layers below the waist – Yoshio Kubo has gone for an accesible layering of shorts as well as the more fashion-forward pleating and skirting. Over and above all of that you can’t help but find one of the colour palettes above to fall in love with – the dark purple on (8) above is fantastic blended into black and I don’t think I need to say anything more about that deep red fur stole.
All in all Yoshi Kubo has definitely completed what he started in last years AW 2010 collection in terms of structure and textile. Now this particular image of man rooted between nature and civilisation feels more concise and constrained without losing any of its flair. This also feels like a collection that could fit an international palette quite easily and I only hope that this finds as large an audience as it possibly can.
I should also say that his women’s line Muller looks excellent this year as well and Rebecca will be covering that very very soon. Finally current season can be found here if you haven’t seen it yet.