After a quiet spell Yuima Nakazato is back on the Tokyo fashion map with a futuristic street wear collection that does justice to his ambitious vision. In the past you couldn’t help but feel that the young designer’s mind was racing two steps ahead of his hands, the textiles were there, but you could tell he was trapped by traditional construction techniques at every turn in bringing his world to life. Now with the addition of a 3D printer similar to that employed by Anrealage’s Mudsnail, the work is coming to life, brimming with otherworldly details and finishing that just wasn’t possible before. It is very telling that abroad the likes of Iris van Herpen’s first reaction to the new technology is to push the limits of fashion via extravagant works limited to editorials and the runway, but the first reaction in Japan is to take it to the street, as evidenced by the aforementioned Anrealage, Keisuke Kanda and now Yuima Nakazato.
The collection is themed on a futuristic biker gang meets basketball team that looks like it has popped out of the 2D world of anime into our reality in an array of hyper-real hi-tech fabrics and oil slick leathers. The streetwear theme has given Yuima Nakazato a chance to make something really wearable compared to his gender challenging pieces in the past, and it is fantastic to think that we are going to see this on the street in due course.
The forms of the collection were inspired by the geometrics of the basketball court, as well as more obvious biker staples, above you can see the imagined court that this gang might play on.
For the collection, Yuima has created 2 teams, one in black, one in white, the constant being the neon red that runs throughout.
Another view of the court.
The white team on their bikes – which artist Shotaro Hokari actually made and displayed at the exhibition.
Compared to his rather more static work in the past, everything about the current collection is in motion and all the clothes more practical because of it. Fans might remember his male high heels that gave you a sizable boost in hight, but significant difficulty in walking. In contrast, this season the shoes are futuristic trainers designed in collaboration with Sawa Konishi.
Love the contrast between the fur and the plastic based fabrics, and all the trim is in leather in case you were wondering.
Yuima returns to the melted plastic effects for some of the detailing which you should remember from his first full collection.
Here you can clearly see the biker trainers with that massive tongue, the biker influences extending too to the heavy ribbing on the trousers and jacket.
On to the white team and we start to see some of the most wearable pieces in the line-up.
The futuristic detailing on the fur is fantastic – a real technical feat.
The bike in all its glory.
For more on the collection and full credits you can go here and I can’t wait to see more from this promising young brand now that they have the tools to make the vision come to life.